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I sanded the 3 fixed shelves with 120 and 220 to revome any machining mark.   I then test fitted and sanded with more 220 until I got a perfect fit in my dados.  I got all three shelves fitting nicely.
I sanded the 3 fixed shelves with 120 and 220 to revome any machining mark. I then test fitted and sanded with more 220 until I got a perfect fit in my dados. I got all three shelves fitting nicely.
I tested my clamp up with all my squares and clamps. I only have 4 bessy clamps that would span the 36" width. So I could only clamp 2 shelves at a time, which works out to my benifit. I clamped the 2 lower shelves in their dados. At this time I noticed the rabits for the top shelf weren't perfect and I would need to clean them up a little so I held off on that one.   Next I needed to trim down my piece of 1/8" Oak ply to the correct size. (I had hardwood store cut it to rough size on their panel saw) This stuff was so flimsy and difficult to work with. I used my Circular saw and back-to-back strightedge clamp to cross cut it to the right lengh. My strightedge clamp is only 50" so I can't use it to rip it to width. My fence only cuts 30" to the right so I couldn't use that to cut the width of 35 1/8" I used the back side of my fence to set a board at the correct width of 35 1/8" and clamped that down to use as my fence. Then I took the fence to the left side of the blade and clamped a board to hold the ply down to the table . It was a bit tricky cutting it nice and stright but once I got the hang of it, it cut nicely.   
I tested my clamp up with all my squares and clamps.  I only have 4 bessy clamps that would span the 36" width. So I could only clamp 2 shelves at a time, which works out to my benifit.  I clamped the 2 lower shelves in their dados.  At this time I noticed the rabits for the top shelf weren't perfect and I would need to clean them up a little so I held off on that one.  Next I needed to trim down my piece of 1/8" Oak ply to the correct size. (I had hardwood store cut it to rough size on their panel saw)  This stuff was so flimsy and difficult to work with. I used my Circular saw and back-to-back strightedge clamp to cross cut it to the right lengh.  My strightedge clamp is only 50" so I can't use it to rip it to width.  My fence only cuts 30" to the right so I couldn't use that to cut the width of 35 1/8" I used the back side of my fence to set a board at the correct width of 35 1/8" and clamped that down to use as my fence.  Then I took the fence to the left side of the blade and clamped a board to hold the ply down to the table .  It was a bit tricky cutting it nice and stright but once I got the hang of it, it cut nicely.
Now I attempted to slide the 1/8" ply backing into the 1/8" wide dadoes. I got it up to the middle shelf and it just seized. It didnt' want to budge, in or out. It finnally took some persuasion with a rubber mallet to get it out.    I then took my plane and took a little off the back of the shelf which appeared to be making the backing bind. I also took my sander and beveled the edges of the ply to help is slide easier. I got it back on to that sticky point which grabed hold of the backer again, but this time just a little tapping from the bottom slid it passed the shelf. Here you can see my progress getting the backer on.
Now I attempted to slide the 1/8" ply backing into the 1/8" wide dadoes.  I got it up to the middle shelf and it just seized. It didnt' want to budge, in or out.  It finnally took some persuasion with a rubber mallet to get it out. I then took my plane and took a little off the back of the shelf which appeared to be making the backing bind.  I also took my sander and beveled the edges of the ply to help is slide easier.  I got it back on to that sticky point which grabed hold of the backer again, but this time just a little tapping from the bottom slid it passed the shelf. Here you can see my progress getting the backer on.
I got to this point with about a foot left I couldn't get much of a grip on the board to pull so I put my Hand screw on to get a better grip and pulled it in to about 6" where the clamp was in the way. Those last few inches were quite stubborn at ended up using the mallet to slowly tap the bottom end of it untill it was all the way closed. Shot from the front of the cabinet. After test fitting the bottom kickplat. I made a design change. For a cleaner nicer look I wanted the bottom of the backer to be set into a dado on the top and bottom boards.
I got to this point with about a foot left I couldn't get much of a grip on the board to pull so I put my Hand screw on to get a better grip and pulled it in to about 6" where the clamp was in the way.  Those last few inches were quite stubborn at ended up using the mallet to slowly tap the bottom end of it untill it was all the way closed. Shot from the front of the cabinet. After test fitting the bottom kickplat. I made a design change.  For a cleaner nicer look I wanted the bottom of the backer to be set into a dado on the top and bottom boards.
The change was easy, Set the fence 1/8" from the back of the bit and run the board over the 1/8" bit. To make a 1/16" deep dado This took quit a few clamps to glue in the kick plate.  2 top and bottom to pull it towards the front of the case, one the squeeze the sides together and a couple to pull it towards the top of the case.  A couple tapps of the mallet seated the backer in the kick board to make a nice joint.
The change was easy, Set the fence 1/8" from the back of the bit and run the board over the 1/8" bit. To make a 1/16" deep dado This took quit a few clamps to glue in the kick plate.  2 top and bottom to pull it towards the front of the case, one the squeeze the sides together and a couple to pull it towards the top of the case.  A couple tapps of the mallet seated the backer in the kick board to make a nice joint.
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News

DateDescription
06/04/2007Finished Bookcase Pictures added
04/30/2007Finished Cradle Page added for Baby Cradle
04/30/2007Page 6 updated for Baby Cradle
04/30/2007Comment section added
04/29/2007Cherry Baby Cradle Finished!
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07/14/2007DavidWhat I ended up using was a couple rollerblade bearings, steel rod and some rare earth magnets. In the Cradle side I drilled a hole with a forsner bit the right size for the outer diameter of the bearing. then without moving anything I changed the bit to the size of the rare earth magnet (3/8 or 1/2 i forget which) I then glued the magnet into the hole. On the mating tower I drilled a hole to fit the steel rod (3/8” I think). I did some testing to make sure the rods were long enough so that when assembled you couldn’t pull out the rods without unbolting to towers from the bottom streatcher. I glued the rods in the tower side and the magnet would pull it though the bearing and hold it tight. I also put 2 nylon washers in between to prevent the towers from rubbing on the sides of the cradle.
07/14/2007RonI'm going to attempt a similar cradle for my sister, how do you join the cradle to the base for the pivots?
04/30/2007DavidWelcome to my website. I am glad you took the time to stop by. Please add any comments you would like. There may be a delay of up to 1 day before your new comments show up.
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Last Updated 4/30/07