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I am useing the Dow'l Simp'l jig. It seam to work quite good. Clamp
it down with the point on the line I made |
Drill the holes with the depth colar set to not go through the face frame. I am
using a regular twist bit that I had because the brad point bit that came with the
kit wouldn't even drill 1 hole (quite unhappy about that).
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Nice 5/16" dowel hole. I made all the holes in the face frame first to keep
them all the same depth. |
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Now clamp the jig on the side of the body, and reset the depth collar to drill deep
enough to accept the rest of the dowel. |
Put the dowels in. |
All the dowel layed in the carcas. |
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Then test fit the face frame on the carcas. The fit is near perfect, just
a light sanding with bring them perfectly flush. Its a lot closer then if
I tried to do it without the dowels. |
Clamp and glue one side. |
Since it used all my clamps I had to wait an hour or so to do the other side.
Good time to go eat dinner. |
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Now the other side is all clamped up. |
With the 2 side face frames in I can cross cut the horizontal members of the face
frame to exact size. I always leave them a little long when milling so the
will make a perfect fit on installation. |
After the cut, its a perfect fit. I put in 3 dowels on this piece. |
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Then clamp and glued it on.
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I doweled the middle cross member and the kick plate. After thinking for a
little while I decided I should probably have mortise and tenon joints on the splitter
that runs vertically in the middle of the cabinet from the kickplate to the middle
cross member.
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