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I trimed up the sides of the doors to final size. |
This little gem showed up on the edge of one of the doors. Which started as
a small surface hole which I filled with thick CA glue, but now I discover how very
large and deep hole really was. I'll have to figure out a way to fix that. |
Now the bottom wasn't even all the pieces came out a little different and that is
mostly because I usually leave a little extra here and there just in case I need
it. Well it was time to flush it up and it was from 1/8- 3/16" off in some places,
I tried using my LA Block plane but just couldn't get good cuts because of the location
and position of the piece. I didn't want to try to use a stright edge and
use a router or circular saw because trying this before on a different project its
quite difficult to get it in the same line when you have to set it up 3 times.
So I went a bought a belt sander. This guy took care of it in less than 5
mins using a 50grit belt. This Ridgid 3x18" belt sander did a great job, felt
good, decent dust extraction with my shop vac.
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I used a 1/4" round over bit in my router and rounded over all the face frame |
Went over all the round overs with the sander to make sure they all blended seamlessly. |
Now it was time to finish sand the whole project. Starting at 80grit on the bottom
to get rid of the 50 grit sanding marks from the belt sander.
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Then moved up to 120 to flatten out all the joints and plane markes. |
The finished it up with 220. |
Sanding that 1/8" thick ply was farily difficult because it just vibrated all over
since there isn't much support in it. |
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This is my finish mixture. Watco Danish oil. I used 10% Golden Oak, 50% Medium
Walnut and the last 40% of natural. The Golden Oak wasn't really necessary
but I tested it for this project and it wasn't right so I just wanted to use it
up and stretch the mix. I of course tested this mix previously and found it perfect
for my match. |
The Danish Oil is an extreamly simple finish to use. It has a bit of tinting in
it but always goes on nice and even compared to staning. It has lots of good
oils to give the grain depth and warmth. It also have varnish in it for protection.
Since this isn't a high traffice piece this will provide enough protection. (Slightly
more than a pure oil finish, no where near as much as a poly finish) I Started
with the back and let it dry over night. |
Next I started with the inside of the back. Then the inside sides and shelfs.
I worked on the inside most parts and moved outward so as not to rub my body up
agains the finished parts. |
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Next the face frame |
And finally the rest of the unit. The simplicity of the Danish Oil finish
is you just flood it on with a brush (I am using a flat painting pad that I found
out works great) leaving the surface nice and wet, reappling to the places that
soak it all up. |
Once it is all covered you can wait for it to soak in and apply another coat. After
15-30 minutes you use a clean cloth and rub in and wipe off any excess and your
done. Let it dry over night. If you want to top coat with Poly or something(I
am not on this project) you wait 72 hrs then add your top coat. There are
no streaks, drip marks, or dust nibs to worry about. |
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More To Come |