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After using the marking guage to mark the sides of the mortises in the towers I used my chisels to define the ends. I used a forsner bit this time to hog out the bulk of the mortise.  Since this was a very shallow but wide mortise I am using the forsner bit instead of the hollow mortise chisel Also they are 3/4 These turned out quite well and it was even faser then using the mortiser.
After using the marking guage to mark the sides of the mortises in the towers I used my chisels to define the ends. I used a forsner bit this time to hog out the bulk of the mortise.  Since this was a very shallow but wide mortise I am using the forsner bit instead of the hollow mortise chisel Also they are 3/4" wide and my largest mortise bit is 1/2". These turned out quite well and it was even faser then using the mortiser.
Just have to take my chisels to square up the corners. Finish mortise in the towers. Now it was time to do the Mortise in the end boards. Since it worked so well before I used the fornser bit again.  These were much smaller (3/8
Just have to take my chisels to square up the corners. Finish mortise in the towers. Now it was time to do the Mortise in the end boards. Since it worked so well before I used the fornser bit again.  These were much smaller (3/8") so the bit would flex just a little bit and didn't work as well but still good.
Finished end boards with the 4 mortises. Now I marked out all the stretchers to which mortise they will go to in the end boards. Cut the shoulders on the table saw.
Finished end boards with the 4 mortises. Now I marked out all the stretchers to which mortise they will go to in the end boards. Cut the shoulders on the table saw.
Cut the side cheeks off on the band saw. Then used my tenon jig to cut the cheeks sneaking up on a good fit for each mortise.< Finished mortise and tenon.
Cut the side cheeks off on the band saw. Then used my tenon jig to cut the cheeks sneaking up on a good fit for each mortise. Finished mortise and tenon.
Will all the tenons cut we can dry fit it all together.  From here we can measure an exact height for the slats. I used a 3/16 I used AutoCAD and a ploter to print out a perfect life size template that I glued to piece of 1/4
Will all the tenons cut we can dry fit it all together.  From here we can measure an exact height for the slats. I used a 3/16" round over bit and rounded all the corners of the towers to make sure there are no sharp edges for the baby. I used AutoCAD and a ploter to print out a perfect life size template that I glued to piece of 1/4" ply scrap to help me layout the mortises for the slats.
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News

DateDescription
06/04/2007Finished Bookcase Pictures added
04/30/2007Finished Cradle Page added for Baby Cradle
04/30/2007Page 6 updated for Baby Cradle
04/30/2007Comment section added
04/29/2007Cherry Baby Cradle Finished!
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07/14/2007DavidWhat I ended up using was a couple rollerblade bearings, steel rod and some rare earth magnets. In the Cradle side I drilled a hole with a forsner bit the right size for the outer diameter of the bearing. then without moving anything I changed the bit to the size of the rare earth magnet (3/8 or 1/2 i forget which) I then glued the magnet into the hole. On the mating tower I drilled a hole to fit the steel rod (3/8” I think). I did some testing to make sure the rods were long enough so that when assembled you couldn’t pull out the rods without unbolting to towers from the bottom streatcher. I glued the rods in the tower side and the magnet would pull it though the bearing and hold it tight. I also put 2 nylon washers in between to prevent the towers from rubbing on the sides of the cradle.
07/14/2007RonI'm going to attempt a similar cradle for my sister, how do you join the cradle to the base for the pivots?
04/30/2007DavidWelcome to my website. I am glad you took the time to stop by. Please add any comments you would like. There may be a delay of up to 1 day before your new comments show up.
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Last Updated 4/30/07